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Jody O





5.10b ***




Sport Single Pitch


With 5.10c Exension


This was my first 5.10b lead.  This climb is thin with knuckle scraping crimpers that start with the first moves and don't let up until you hit the huecos.

This is a great route if you can get the chance to do it.  There are usually people on it on a busy day.  This is a very busy wall.  This wall has an incredible progression.  Starting from the left you have the following routes:

Five Gallon Buckets 5.8 ***

The Outsiders 5.9 ***

Light on the Path 5.10a ****

Gumby 5.10b ***

Morning Sky 5.10c ***

Zebra Direct  5.11a ***

Jody O

Every one of these climbs will give you good bang for your buck.  Five Gallon Buckets has a way of...messing with you with it's huecos big enough to sleep in making even the largest ledge look like the smallest crimper.  The Outsiders is a 5.9 that is no gimme.  It will give you a bit of a pause at the crux the first time.  Light on the Path used to be a 5.9 until a hold broke off, they now say its a 5.10a.  I would have to agree with the 10a rating.  This climb is positive the entire way, but some tricky feet near the top will slow your pace down a bit.  Gumby follows it all up with a sustained beginning to middle of the climb where you hop into a jug and flake fest.

You can go straight up to some a pumpy 5.10c called Morning Sky to a set of anchors.