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Eric climbing Five Gallon Buckets on the Zebra Wall - Morning Glory Wall - Smith Rock, OregonFive Gallon Buckets

 

 

5.8 ****

 

 

Sport Single Pitch

 

 

 

 

 

There is a saying at Smith Rock:

If there is one group climbing at Smith Rock...they are climbing Five Gallon Buckets.  Its the hostest with the mostest.  It's a jug hall that leaves you grasping around if you can't find one.

Five Gallon Buckets on Morning Glory - Smith Rock, Oregon

 

 

 

I don't know how many times I have done it, but I don't ever really get sick of it.  During the winter, this is definitely the congregation wall on the weekends. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Winter at Smith Rock, Oregon - Climbing Oregon

 

 

The heucos are so large, there are a couple you can crawl up into and nap for a bit.  If you are wanting to lead a great 5.8 this is the climb to break into that with.  One thing I have heard from more than one person is that it can ruin you for anything else for the day. 

Jugs. 

Jugs so big that the thought of not having a heuco you can wrap both arms behind a narrow pillar in the middle shakes your confidence.  Five Gallon Buckets is an odd climb, you get lured into this wierd sense of what a hold is, and when the rock doesn't offer you those holds, it doesn't feel comfortable.  This climb is cool, but it's just different.