Five Gallon Buckets
Sport Single Pitch
There is a saying at Smith Rock:
If there is one group climbing at Smith Rock...they are climbing Five Gallon Buckets. Its the hostest with the mostest. It's a jug hall that leaves you grasping around if you can't find one.
I don't know how many times I have done it, but I don't ever really get sick of it. During the winter, this is definitely the congregation wall on the weekends.
The heucos are so large, there are a couple you can crawl up into and nap for a bit. If you are wanting to lead a great 5.8 this is the climb to break into that with. One thing I have heard from more than one person is that it can ruin you for anything else for the day.
Jugs so big that the thought of not having a heuco you can wrap both arms behind a narrow pillar in the middle shakes your confidence. Five Gallon Buckets is an odd climb, you get lured into this wierd sense of what a hold is, and when the rock doesn't offer you those holds, it doesn't feel comfortable. This climb is cool, but it's just different.