Rope De Dope
Top Rope Paradise
I bet this rock broke in more rock climbers than any single wall at Smith Rock. This block sits across the river from the dihedrals and Morning Glory wall. I am not certain the exact logic with making this rock part of the Morning Glory wall, but, oh well, who am I to try and argue anyone else's logic at the time.
I did my first outdoor climb and first lead ever on this block with Joel. I figured I needed to break into the thing and just do it and not be afraid. So we strolled up to the 5.6 on the side of the block, whipped it out and slammed down our th'ang.
Some rotten bastard had placed a grape, a single grape, in every pocket on that rock that he/she could reach from the ground. So every single time I stuck my fingers into a pocket, I squished a warm grape all over my hand. My chalk didn't so much dry anything up as to create a dough-like paste that ground between my fingers.
But, c'mon! It's Rope De Dope! Climbing snobs turn their nose at it as beneath them, but I think they miss out on some fun climbing. For the day you just want to screw around, hang on some top rope and get a lot of kinesthetic climbing in, this block is your ticket.