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Cool Ranch Flavor 5.11a - Smith Rock - Climbing OregonCool Ranch Flavor

 

 

 

 

5.11a ***

 

 

 

 

 

Sport, Single Pitch

 

 

 

Cool Ranch Flavor 5.11a - Smith Rock - Climbing Oregon

I tried making this my first 5.11 lead.  I made it to the minicrux just below the real crux and took a few too many falls a few too many times.  Steph gave it a heroic go and ended up around where I ended up.  A random Italian gentleman of the astute age of 50+ strolled up and asked us what the climb was rated.  We told him but he added with agitation what the rating was in Europe ratings.  A quick thinking lad next to us from Hood River, Oregon popped up with "around 7a."

He looked at us again and back up at the unfinished climb.  He asked in halting language if he could give it a go.  Never one to stop someone from flailing, we roped him up and he started up the route.  He made it to just below the real crux with ease and then...just sort of...stopped.  He took a few falls before getting the crimper over the lip and grabbing the quick-draw and clipping in, gasping loudly and cursing us in a foreign language.  He shook his fists and started on the last bolt, and the crux of the climb.  He took a few more falls and then, with his leg sewing through three inch thick canvas on tiny little crimpers and the oddest foot dish I ever tried to hold, he sent the climb.  I think he took about seven falls.  He got down to the bottom as we all cheered him on.  He was definitely tired, but very happy with himself for finishing the beast.

I finished the route on top rope.  It calls me.  It tasks me.